Alpha hydroxy acids
in various concentrations are used in chemical peels. The concentration
determines who can use it. Alpha hydroxy acid products sold to
consumers must have a concentration of less than 20%. Trained estheticians can use alpha hydroxy acid products that have a
concentration of 20% to 30%. These chemical peels give results that are
similar to microdermabrasion - erasing fine lines and giving the skin a
smoother appearance with 1 to 3 applications. However, these treatments
must be repeated every 3 to 6 months to maintain this skin appearance.
Doctors and their trained staff (ParaMedical Estheticians and Nurses) can use alpha hydroxy acid products that have a concentration
of 50% to 70%. These treatments also erase fine wrinkles and remove
surface scars, but the effects last longer - up to 2 to 5 years. The
higher the alpha hydroxy acid concentration used in a chemical peel,
the more skin irritation occurs. At the 50% to 70% concentration, a
person could expect to have severe redness, flaking, and oozing skin
that can last for 1 to 4 weeks.
Choosing an Alpha Hydroxy Acid
Alpha hydroxy acids are
found in a variety of skin care products including moisturizers,
cleansers, eye cream, sunscreen, and foundations. Here are some
guidelines to use when trying to decide which alpha hydroxy acid
formulation to use:
It is best to pick one product that
contains the proper formulation of alpha hydroxy acid to use as your
exfoliant, and then choose other skin care products or cosmetics that
don't contain alpha hydroxy acids to reduce the likelihood of skin
irritation.
Using an alpha hydroxy acid in a moisturizer base may be the best combination of products.
Cleansers containing alpha hydroxy acids are not very effective because
the alpha hydroxy acid must be absorbed in the skin to work. Cleansers
are washed off before this absorption occurs.
At this time
there are no effective products that combine alpha hydroxy acid and
sunscreen, because sunscreen is not stable at the pH required to make
the alpha hydroxy acid effective.
Alpha hydroxy acids work best in a concentration of 5% to 8% and at a pH of 3 to 4.
Unfortunately, cosmetic manufacturers are not required to provide
concentration information on the label. As a general rule of thumb,
having the alpha hydroxy acid listed as the second or third ingredient
on the list makes it more likely it contains the proper concentration.
Sunscreen MUST be applied liberally when using an alpha hydroxy acid product. The sunscreen should have an SPF of at least 30 and contain avobenzone, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide for UVA/UVB protection.
